Wednesday, 20 September 2017
Termonfeckin was originally a monastic site founded by St Fechin of Fore in the latter part of the 7th century. The Norman invasion resulted later in the building of two castles in the town but only one survives today. The non extant castle known as "The primates castle" had been used by the Bishops of Armagh over the years most notably by Archbishop Ussher in the early 17th century. It was partially damaged in 1641 during the rebellion and although still used for several years by James Ussher it fell into further disrepair and was finally demolished in 1830.
The remaining tower is the very sturdy Termonfeckin Castle which was constructed in the 15th or 16th century. It stands three storeys tall with a vaulted second level and a spiral stairs. It has a prominent projecting tower. Originally there was a second projecting tower but it too had been damaged in 1641. Later Captain James Brabazon (1619-1674) repaired and made some alterations to it but it now stands as a ruin.
We visited this castle during a weekday in September with a view to getting a look inside and reaching roof level. I was aware in advance that a key holder had to be located. Actually there is a notice on the gate advising that an entry key may be obtained from the first house on the right of the castle but when we followed the instructions we unfortunately found that there was nobody home and the mobile phone number supplied just rang out. Disappointing maybe as we probably just chose the wrong time to visit. However, I have every intention of returning soon to investigate the interior.
Please note if visiting that the key holder will request a deposit of 50 Euro which is fully reimbursed on the return of the key.
To find the ruin take the M1 heading North and at Junction 10 take the exit for the N51 to Drogheda. At the top of the ramp follow the roundabout to the right until you see the Drogheda exit.. Drive straight through the next roundabout and on the roundabout following that take the second exit to the right onto the R132. Drive for approx. 1.8KM until you reach a set of traffic lights with a left turn onto Patrick Street. Turn left onto Patrick street which once out of Drogheda becomes the R166 and continue for 7.5KM until you reach Termonfeckin. Once you have entered the village and you have crossed over the small stone bridge near the lofty spired church, take the first turn right which is opposite the car park of The Waterside restaurant. Drive up this narrow road and take the first turn left and the subsequently the next turn right down a cul-de-sac.. The castle is located on your right. You can park on the grass margin opposite.
Tuesday, 5 September 2017
The structures are accessible by a sandy track that leads to the rather stony beach. Apparently within the Maiden Tower a set of spiral steps leads to a barrel vaulted ceiling with an access point out onto the pararpets. A doorway which stands about 3 feet off the ground is now sadly barred up with a steel plate by the County Council as a result of vandalism to the tower in 2003. The original iron grill that blocked the door was forcibly removed by a vehicle with tow rope for no other reason than pure vandalism and to infiltrate and cause damage to the interior. To protect the tower from further harm it was closed to any public access.
We come now to the smaller structure which stands at 42 feet in height and is actually an obelisk of sorts. It was most likely used as described to act with the large tower as a navigational aid. It is local folklore that a lady awaiting the return of her mariner husband was viewing the ship's approach and on seeing the black sails which had been raised in error by the crew saw this as a signal that her husband had been killed. Quite distraught the lady threw herself from the tower to her death. It is said that the mariner who was still quite alive constructed the obelisk in her memory and it was called The Lady's Finger. That is the name to which it still known.
The building that stands adjacent to the tower was once a 19th century boathouse for the lifeboat service. This particular one ceased to be in 1926 falling into ruin thereafter. It was later refurbished to avoid more vandalism into a private dwelling but still daubings can be seen on a gable end one of them stating "The Mornington Mafia"
The tower and obelisk are well worth a visit especially on a clear day and with the backdrop of the estuary it's a very picturesque spot.
To find your way there take the M1 motorway heading North and exit at junction 7. Turn right at the roundabout at the top of the exit ramp and cross over the motorway taking the exit ahead on the next roundabout for the R132. Drive for approx 5KM and you will reach Julianstown. Continue through the village and drive another 3KM until you reach two roundabouts in close proximity. Take the right hand exit on the second roundabout onto the L1611 for Mornington. Continue on for another 3.5KM until you reach a stop sign at a staggered crossroads. (you will see a Texaco station ahead). Turn left at this junction and approx 400m along take the third turn right . This is called Tower Road. Just follow it until you see the entrance track to the Maiden Tower & Obelisk ahead. There is a height restrictive barrier for 2 Metres at the entrance but most.cars will fit under.and there's space beyond for a few vehicles.
P.S. I have substantially updated the post on Bective Abbey in county Meath if you would like to check it out.
Monday, 21 August 2017
This unusual site can be found adjacent to the Royal canal near Louisa Bridge in Leixlip.
In 1793 when excavating the land near the canal to build an aqueduct so that the canal could cross the Rye Water some of the workers discovered a hot spring with the water emanating at a temperature of approx. 75 degrees Fahrenheit. William Connolly of Leixlip Castle (nephew of the famed “Speaker Conolly”) requested the Royal Canal Company to divert the spring water into a brick basin alongside the banks of the Rye Water. Connolly’s entrepreneurial mind envisioned a Roman style outdoor bath and commissioned its construction. He was motivated by the success of the spring at Lucan which was discovered in 1758 and became very lucrative spawning a hotel at the site and thousands of visitors. The Leixlip Spa once constructed was indeed quite popular but the vision of a hotel never materialised especially following Connollys death. The spa was still in use over the years but by the 1960’s it had fallen into disrepair. A combination of committees and donations helped restore it somewhat and it was a feature in one of the late great Dick Warner’s Waterways documentaries in 2011 showing it then to be in good condition. Sadly now it has regressed, becoming a receptacle for litter and debris.and has also been daubed with graffiti
My curiosity took hold of me recently and I decided to take a look at this oddity. Free parking near Louisa Bridge seems hard to find so I just parked in the railway station car park and paid the fee. I crossed the road to the track the runs alongside the canal and found that a few yards down it split in two. I took the left hand track that runs away from the canal and after a short walk came upon the Romanesque bath in an area just below the grassy ridge I was standing on. A rudimentary set of steps led down to the bath. Unfortunately things have not improved and there was the remains of a fire that had been lit on the stone surround. It would seem that the site is unfortunately attracting more anti-social rather than social gatherings these days. There are two sets of stone steps on each end of the bath which are still in very good condition. This is such an unusual and pleasing remnant of the past and it would be great if it could be restored again. I’m sure if properly managed it would attract visitors to avail of what is said to be healing water.
I left the site following a track that led up through the bushes toward the canal pathway and here I found the derelict remains of the canal lengthsman’s house. This too was unfortunately defaced by graffiti. The Lengthsman would have be responsible for a stretch of the canal maintaining the water level. The run-off water was directed down the slope to the Rye Water forming a manmade waterfall. Water still runs off to this day and you can access the waterfall by taking the long set of purposely built wooden stairs down towards the river. The area around the Rye water banks is of great ecological interest with some very diverse fauna to be seen. In late summer and early Autumn be wary of the white flowered giant hogweed that is quite abundant near the river and make sure your skin does not come in contact with it and especially its sap which can cause serious burns.
To find the Spa take the M4 junction 6 exit heading north toward Leixlip. Follow on through two roundabouts and turn right on the second one onto the R149 and continue until you reach the bridge over the canal at the train station. Take the first right hand turn after the bridge and you will see the car park on your right. The fee for the day is €4.50. The Spa can be found on the opposite side of the road. Just follow the track alongside the canal and take the left hand fork a few yards down.
Monday, 7 August 2017
This monastic site is associated with St Ciaran the elder who on returning from twenty years in Rome founded a monastery at Saighir and also here in Tullaherin sometime in the 5th-6th century. While none of the original structures survive at Tullaherin the site was deemed very important and was built upon during the next few centuries. The incomplete Round tower we see today stands approx. 73 feet high and was constructed in the 9th century and as with most towers was designed to protect the monks and their valuables from marauding Vikings. The tower is missing its conical top and indeed shows evidence of leaning somewhat. St Ciaran is reputed to be buried here, some believe in the vicinity of the tower. The large ruins adjacent to the tower are of an 11th or 12th century Church which was added to in the 1400’s by the construction of a chancel. It is divided into two sections. After the dissolution the Church changed hands to serve the Protestant community and was greatly renovated in 1616. However, the 1837 ordnance survey map lists the church as being in ruins.
The site is very impressive. It is somewhat off the beaten track but is well worth a visit. We were directed here whilst visiting nearby Kilfane Church (see post here) by a local man binging his kids to see the magnificent medieval Knight effigy. We later ran into them again at Tullaherin. A combination of both places makes for a really rewarding journey.
Two Ogham stones were discovered here in the past one of which was removed from the site and rediscovered in the 1980’s propping up a gate on nearby lands. It was brought back to Tullaherin and placed adjacent to the South wall and close to the base of the tower. It still has some inscriptions upon it but they are fairly illegible.
I’m not sure if there is work going on here at the moment but there are warning signs placed on the church ruins to avoid entering the ruins. However you can pretty much get around what you need to see.
Two asides of interest. The first is the existence here of a cillin which is a rather sad thing to encounter. It is basically a kind of potter’s field for children. A mass burial site where unfortunately deceased and unbaptized infants were buried. This was usually situated nearby the consecrated graveyard but still outside the walls leaving them in some respect divorced from the normal populace. It was a common practice in early Ireland and there are numerous examples around the country. Very sad indeed. The other item of interest is on one of the approach roads to Tullherin. It is an ornate fountain called the Stroan fountain It was commissioned by Colonel Bushe of Kilfane House in 1766 using local limestone. Its purpose was to supply water to the tenants of his estate. It is aesthetically pleasing to the eye and was renovated but unfortunately the tantalisingly clear water flowing from it has at the moment a warning not to consume direct from the fountain due to bacteria present. Hopefully this will be resolved at some stage.
Take the M9 heading South and exit at Junction 7 and at the top of the exit ramp take the left hand exit for the R448 (signposted for Thomastown). Continue straight through the next roundabout and on the subsequent roundabout turn right on to the continuance of the R448. Continue on through the villages of Gowran and Dungarvan and approx. 4KM out of Dungarvan you will find a right hand turn. Unfortunately there are no direction signs but if you pass the Long Man restaurant & bar on your right then you need to turn and go back approx. 500m and take the first left turn. Follow this road for approx. 1.75KM and you will reach a crossroads at Tullaherin Church. Turn left and you can park in the car park of the modern church. The monastic site is directly opposite.
Wednesday, 26 July 2017
I side tracked to this interesting ruin while in the vicinity visiting Morett castle (see earlier post here). These are the remains of a medieval church constructed on the site of an early Christian monastery. The ruins after excavation and renovation in the early 1990’s revealed a construction of several phases the oldest part being of early Christian era with later extensions that included a Chancel in the Romanesque style and even later renovations constructed in the Gothic style. The church remained in use even after the dissolution. On February 2nd 1779 when it was then under the name of St Peter’s and serving the protestant community the thatched roof was set alight burning the church badly. A new and larger Church was built between 1782 and 1785 and subsequently the old church found itself utilized as a farm outbuilding. It was listed on the 1837 ordnance survey map as being in ruin at that time.
The ruins are situated in a very pastoral setting surrounded by meadows and access is easy enough by way of a small iron gate by the roadside. All of the walls and gables are extant and access to the interior is now possible whereas in the past the windows and doors had been blocked up. A clean up was done on the site but the overgrowth inside appears to be taking hold again. The structure consists of a chancel and nave and is quite long at 62 feet. It is approx. 22 feet in width. Entry point is the Romanesque door possibly dating to the 12th century that is positioned in the West facing gable. The once Romanesque dividing arch has only the original base extant but the arch has been restored for some unknown reason in the Gothic style. One interesting little remnant can be found on the interior of the North wall adjacent to the East gable. It is an early Christian cross slab which was removed from its original spot and placed securely on the wall during renovation
Coolbanagher was positioned on the road of the assemblies an important medieval route that stretched between the ancient provinces of Mide and Munster. St Aengus the renowned 9th century Bishop and scribe is said to have stopped at Coolbanagher during a journey and whilst there was inspired to write the Félire Óengusso a register of saints and their feast days.
As a small aside a few metres down the road from the church until recently stood the huge ruin of Coolbanagher Castle. A tall tower house, It was located in the grounds of a private residence but partially collapsed during a bad storm in 2014. It was subsequently demolished and all that unfortunately remains now is a large pile of stones.
To find the ruins head West on the M7 and take the junction 15 exit signposted for Mountmellick. At the top of the exit ramp take the right hand exit of the roundabout which crosses back over the M7. Go straight through the roundabout on the other side and at the subsequent roundabout turn left again following the sign for Mountmellick. Approx 250m on you will reach another roundabout which you go straight through. Continue for approx. 1.8KM and take the third right hand turn (this narrow road is at an angle to the main road). Drive down this road and after approx. 1KM you will reach a crossroads. Go straight across and drive another 600m until you reach a T-Junction. Turn right and approx. 200m on you will spot the ruin on your left. You can park at the verge at the entrance gate.